Most waterproof jackets that seem to leak are not leaking. The outer fabric has lost its water repellent finish and soaked through, so the breathable membrane underneath can no longer move sweat out, and you end up damp from the inside. A proper clean and a fresh water repellent treatment usually brings the jacket back.
The basic routine is short: clean out the washing machine’s detergent drawer, wash the jacket with a technical cleaner instead of household detergent, then apply a wash-in or spray-on proofer and dry it as the care label says.
Boots, tents and bags need their own products, but the idea is the same: clean first, then proof.
Why waterproofs stop working
New waterproofs are treated with a durable water repellent (DWR) coating that makes water bead and roll off. Over time it is worn away by rubbing from rucksack straps and seat belts, and clogged by dirt, mud, smoke, sun cream and the oils from your skin. Once water spreads into the fabric instead of beading, the jacket is “wetting out”.
Signs that it is time to wash and reproof:
- Water no longer beads on the shoulders, cuffs or seat.
- The fabric darkens in patches when it rains.
- You feel clammy inside even on gentle walks.
- The jacket smells or looks visibly grubby.
Washing more often, not less, keeps waterproofs working. Household detergent and fabric conditioner leave residues that attract water, so use a cleaner made for technical fabrics.
How to wash a waterproof jacket
- Read the care label. It tells you the wash temperature and whether the jacket can be tumble dried.
- Empty the pockets and close the zips and Velcro. Loosen the drawcords.
- Clean the detergent drawer. Nikwax points out that ordinary detergent attracts water, so residue in the drawer can undo the wash. Run it under the tap and wipe it out.
- Use a technical cleaner. Products such as Nikwax Tech Wash or Grangers Performance Wash clean without leaving a water attracting residue. Nikwax advises washing no more than two items at a time.
- No fabric conditioner or bleach. Both can damage membranes and coatings.
- Dry as the label says. Line drying is the safe option.
You will find technical washes and proofers alongside the outdoor clothing in the camping and outdoor range.
Reproofing: wash-in or spray-on
| Method | Good for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Wash-in | Jackets with a wicking lining, fleeces, soft shells, all-over treatment | Treats inside and outside; easy and even |
| Spray-on | Jackets with a membrane and mesh or no lining, worn areas such as shoulders | Treats only the outside, so breathability inside is kept |
| 2 in 1 wash and repel | Quick routine for lightly used kit | Cleans and proofs in one cycle |
Always clean the garment before you reproof; proofer will not bond well to dirt. With a wash-in product, Nikwax’s instructions are to wash first with Tech Wash, then run a second wash with TX.Direct Wash-In. Some proofers need gentle heat to activate and others do not, so follow the instructions on the bottle and the garment’s care label.
After drying, test with a few drops of water. If they bead, the treatment has worked. Give heavily worn areas such as shoulders and cuffs an extra spray if needed. Reproofing works on any brand, from the budget packaways in the men’s waterproof jackets range to heavier coats in the women’s range.
Boots and footwear
- Leather boots: brush off mud, clean with a footwear cleaning gel, then apply a proofer made for leather while they are still damp. Wax treatments suit smooth leather; use a spray-on for suede and nubuck.
- Fabric boots with a membrane: clean and use a spray-on footwear proofer that does not block breathability.
- Rubber wellies, such as those in the women’s wellies range: they do not need proofing. Rinse, dry away from heat and use a rubber conditioner. See the wellington boots guide.
- Dry boots at room temperature, never on a radiator or by a fire, which cracks leather and rubber.
Tents and camping gear
Tent flysheets lose water repellency too, and sunlight breaks down fabric over time. Clean a tent with a dedicated tent cleaner and a soft sponge, not a pressure washer or household detergent. A tent proofer with UV protection, sprayed or brushed on a pitched, clean tent on a dry day, restores the beading and helps protect the fabric. Pack the tent away only when fully dry to avoid mildew. The tent guide covers more on pitching and care.
Quick checklist
- Wash when water stops beading or the jacket looks dirty.
- Clean the detergent drawer first.
- Technical wash only, no fabric conditioner or bleach.
- Reproof after washing: wash-in for lined jackets, spray-on for membranes.
- Follow the care label on temperature and drying.
- Test with water drops afterwards.
- Leather and fabric boots get their own proofers; rubber does not need one.
- Clean and proof tents on a dry day and pack them dry.
Common questions
How often should I wash a waterproof jacket?
Whenever it looks dirty or water stops beading. For regular use in wet weather, that may be several times a season. Washing with a technical cleaner does not harm a waterproof; dirt and oils do more damage.
Can I use ordinary washing powder on a waterproof?
It is best not to. Household detergents and conditioners leave residues that attract water and can make the fabric wet out faster. Use a cleaner made for technical fabrics, and clean the detergent drawer first.
My jacket still leaks after reproofing. Now what?
Check the seams and zips. Seam tape can peel with age and fabric can wear through at the shoulders or cuffs. If water comes in through the seams, a seam sealer may help; if the fabric itself is worn out, the jacket may be at the end of its life.
