A good tent for Irish conditions keeps out steady rain and stands up to wind, gives you room to sit up and store wet gear, and is quick enough to pitch that you are not soaked before you are inside. The three things to decide first are size, waterproofing and how you will carry it.
Most people are happiest with a tent rated for one more person than will sleep in it, a flysheet with a hydrostatic head of around 3,000 mm, and a porch for boots, bags and rods. If you walk in to a lake or river with the tent on your back, weight and packed size come first; if you park beside your pitch, comfort and space can win.
Practise pitching at home before the first trip. A tent pitched badly leaks and flaps however good its rating is.
Size and berth
The berth is the number of sleeping places, based on standard sleeping mats lying side by side with little space to spare. In practice:
- One person with gear: a 2 berth tent.
- Two adults: a 3 berth tent gives room for bags inside.
- Family of four: a 5 or 6 berth tent, ideally with separate bedrooms and a living area.
Check the inner tent dimensions and the peak height. If you are tall, the inner length matters more than the berth, and a tent you can stand up in makes a wet weekend far easier.
Waterproof ratings
Flysheet waterproofing is given as a hydrostatic head (HH) in millimetres, the same measure used for jackets. Outdoor brand Highlander describes about 1,000 mm as basic protection for light showers, about 2,000 mm as practical for general summer camping, and about 3,000 mm as dependable protection for typical UK camping conditions. For exposed sites and wild camping it suggests 3,000 to 5,000 mm.
| Flysheet HH | Suits |
|---|---|
| About 1,000 mm | Gardens, fair weather, short summer trips |
| About 2,000 mm | Sheltered campsites in summer |
| About 3,000 mm | Typical wet weather camping in Ireland and the UK |
| 4,000 mm and above | Exposed pitches, backpacking, wild camping |
The groundsheet usually has a higher rating than the flysheet because you kneel and lie on it. Taped seams, a fly that reaches close to the ground and a sewn-in groundsheet matter as much as the number.
Poles, air beams or pop-up
- Dome tents use crossing flexible poles. They are freestanding and quick to pitch, and smaller ones handle wind well.
- Tunnel tents use parallel hoops and rely on guy lines. They give a lot of space for their weight but must be pitched with the back end into the wind.
- Air tents use inflatable beams instead of poles. They pitch quickly with a pump and are popular for family camping, but are heavy to carry and need the pump with you every time. Carry a repair kit.
- Pop-up tents spring open in seconds. Good for festivals and short summer trips; they can be awkward to fold and are less stable in strong wind.
Brands such as Coleman, Easy Camp, Outwell, Robens and Regatta are among those in the camping and outdoor range, and the brands page lists the brands on the site.
Features worth having
- A porch or vestibule for wet boots, waterproofs, a cool box and fishing gear, so they stay out of the sleeping area.
- Ventilation panels at both ends to reduce condensation.
- Dark or blackout bedrooms if you want sleep after dawn in summer.
- Two doors for two people in a small tent.
- Pegs and guy lines that suit the ground. Supplied pegs are often thin; stronger pegs help on hard or stony ground.
- A footprint or groundsheet protector under the tent to protect the groundsheet and keep it cleaner.
Pitching well
- Pick level ground, away from dips that collect water and away from trees that drip or drop branches.
- Point the narrow or rear end of the tent into the wind.
- Peg out the corners first, at an angle of about 45 degrees, leaning away from the tent.
- Use every guy line in wind; they spread the load and keep the fly off the inner.
- Keep the fly taut so rain runs off and the inner does not touch it.
- Leave the vents open at night to reduce condensation.
Inside, good sleeping kit makes the rest work; see choosing a sleeping bag. For cooking, set up away from the tent as described in the stoves and gas guide.
Care after the trip
Never store a tent wet. If you pack up in the rain, pitch or hang it to dry within a day or two at home to prevent mildew. Brush off mud when dry, clean with a tent cleaner rather than detergent, and reproof the flysheet when water stops beading. Tent cleaners and proofers are in the camping range, and a pair of wellies keeps your feet dry on a wet pitch.
Quick checklist
- One berth more than the number of sleepers.
- Flysheet around 3,000 mm HH for Irish weather.
- Taped seams and a sewn-in groundsheet.
- Porch space for wet kit.
- Pole type that matches how you travel.
- Strong pegs and every guy line used.
- Practise pitching before the trip.
- Dry the tent fully before storing.
Common questions
Is a 2,000 mm tent waterproof enough?
For summer weekends on a sheltered campsite, often yes. For long spells of rain or exposed pitches, a flysheet around 3,000 mm or more, with taped seams and a well pitched fly, gives a better margin.
Why is the inside of my tent wet in the morning?
Usually condensation from your breath and damp clothing meeting the cold fabric, not a leak. Open the vents, keep wet gear in the porch and make sure the inner and flysheet do not touch.
Are air tents better than pole tents?
They are faster to pitch and handle wind well when properly guyed, but they are heavier and pricier and depend on a pump. For carrying any distance, a pole tent is lighter.
